Getting in Avignon

Getting to Avignon couldn’t be easier thanks to a range of great rail travel options:

TGV fares from Paris or Lille to Avignon start from as little as £19pp single in standard class*.

Travel from London Waterloo on Eurostar and TGV from as little as £109pp return in standard class or £189pp return in first class.

Excursions of Avignon

For a Half Day

Villeneuve-les-Avignon: The Pont St Benezet stops enticingly short of Villeneuve-les-Avignon, situated on the west bank of the River Rhone, allowing only a view onto the impressive fortifications of the Fort St Andre, built on the rocky outcrop of the Mont Andaon, in the 14th century. This ‘ville neuve’ (new town) allowed the King of France to keep an eye on the city of the popes across the river - although many popes and cardinals could not resist its charm, building their luxurious residences (known as livrees) on the site.

The Musee Pierre de Luxembourg still displays the wealth of the cardinal, its previous owner. A 15-minute bus ride (on line 11) links Avignon (the Old Town) with its New Town, stopping near the tourist office, 1 place Charles David . The key attraction is close by - the Chartreuse du Val de Benediction. Founded by Pope Innocent VI, in 1356, this was once the largest and most important Carthusian monastery in France.

For a Whole Day

Gordes: The Provençal village of Gordes lies atop the Vaucluse Plateau, overlooking the Sorgue and Calavon rivers. Artists’ galleries, restaurants and hotels line the sloping streets, leading up to a chateau built between the 11th and 16th centuries. The Gordes Tourist Officeis located just below, in the Salle des Gardes (Guards’ Hall). The easiest way for one to reach Gordes is by road (south on the N7 from Avignon, turning onto the D2 at Cavaillon), although the village is accessible by bus from the tranquil town of Cavaillon (buses run from Avignon to Cavaillon). It is worth exploring the whole area - just four kilometres (two and a half miles) southwest (off the D2) are the curious beehive-like Bories, first built in the Bronze Age but occupied continuously until the 18th century. To the north lies the 12th-century Cistercian Abbaye de Senanque, a functioning monastery surrounded by fields of lavender.

Vaison-la-Romaine: For a memorable day out, visitors to Avignon should hire a car and visit Vaison-la-Romaine, a two-tier town with a spectacular history - and an outstanding Tuesday market. The town is located some 40km (25 miles) north of Avignon and the best route is for drivers to head northwards on the N7, as if heading for Orange, but then cut across country, using the D977 from Joncquieres. From Vaison, adventurous drivers can head for Malaucene, a further 10 kilometres (six miles) south of Vaison, and drive over the summit of Mont Ventoux (although this should not be attempted in conditions of poor visibility).

There is a good if rather serpentine road all the way. The route back to Avignon, along the D938, takes in Bedouin and Carpentras (famed for its truffle markets between November and March). A more sedate excursion visits the charming Provençal village of Crestet, a hilltop settlement with a fabulous view, or Seguret, famed for its santons (clay figurines), Sablet, Gigondas and Vacqueyras, all renowned for their wine, as is Beaumes de Venise. A return through Carpentras is possible this way too. Vaison-la-Romaine Tourism can provide further information.

Culture of Avignon

Avignon’s cultural scene hits the headlines each July, with the Avignon Festival, created by Jean Vilar in 1947. It is the oldest and most famous of the festivals in France. Originally pure theatre, the event now includes contemporary and religious music, dance, poetry, circus, films, exhibitions and debates involving up to 600 separate organisations.

The most prestigious productions are performed in the vast Palais des Papes courtyard, others within theatres, churches and sports halls. The Chartreuse, at Villeneuve-les-Avignon, showcases the contemporary theatre of the Avignon Festival, as well as a separate musical theatre festival, Villeneuve en Scene. The programme for 2003 included a performance of Romeo and Juliet in the cour du lycee Saint-Joseph, ‘equestrian theatre’ in the parc des Expositions-Chateaublanc, as well as author readings in the cours du Musee Calvet.

The Bureau du Festival d’Avignon (and box office) is located at the Espace Saint-Louis, 20 rue du Portail Boquier . Alongside the official festival (locally known as the ‘In’), the ‘Off’ fringe festival enlivens city streets and courtyards with a carnival atmosphere. The ‘In’ programme is available on the website from March, or from the Bureau du Festival d’Avignon or the Avignon Tourist Office (see Sightseeing) as of the second week in May. Tickets (priced at €10-40) are available by telephone or on the website, from June onwards. The ‘Off’ programme is published in mid-June (when booking commences) by Paris-based Avignon Public Off. During the festival, the headquarters are within the Conservatoire de Musique, 9 Place du Palais des Papes.

Tickets to all other performances and cultural events in the city are available for purchase from the individual venue box offices, in advance or on the day. The tourist office publishes a monthly calendar of events (French only) in Rendez-Vouz.

Music: The gracious Opera d’Avignon , built in 1847, overlooks place de l’Horloge. The season runs from October to June and includes operas, operettas and symphonic and chamber music concerts, as well as theatre and ballet. The Musique Sacree en Avignon, 49 rue Portail Magnanen , organises free concerts in churches (October to May).

Theatre: Avignon has about 10 permanent theatres, as well as the opera house (see above). The Theatre du Chene Noir, 8 rue Ste-Catherine (tel: (04) 9086 5811), draws well-known actors and directors, while the Theatre du Chien qui Fume, 75 rue des Teinturiers , puts on a varied programme of theatre, music and improvisation evenings. The Theatre des Halles, 4 rue Noel Biret , excels in contemporary theatre, while cutting-edge Theatre des Carmes, 6 place des Carmes , is run by the Andre Benedetto company - one of the founders of the Festival ‘Off’. Theatre tickets tend to be cheaper than the Festival ‘On’ and the season runs from October to May.

Dance: Dance has its own moment of glory in February, when Les Hivernales contemporary dance festival takes place at La Manutention, 4 rue escalier Ste Anne . The Theatre de la Danse, 1 rue Ste Catherine offers courses and performances year round.

Film: Avignon has about 20 cinemas. Cinema Utopia, at La Manutention arts centre, 4 rue escalier Ste Anne shows undubbed arthouse films. Utopia has another cinema located at 5 rue Figuiere, north of place St Didier, where dubbed films creep into the screenings. Utopia also produces La Gazette Utopia, a free monthly listings magazine. Cinema Vox, 22 place de l’Horloge , offers mainstream films, with the odd arthouse film - some in the original language. One of Avignon’s largest cinemas is the 10-screen Pathe Cap Sud, 175 rue Pierre Semard, route de Marseille .

Cultural Events: Without doubt, Avignon’s key cultural event is the Avignon Festival in July. However, another cultural highlight is the Avignon Film Festival, which takes place every June and is a showcase for independent filmmakers from America, France and Europe.

Literary Notes: Petrarch (1304-1374) brought the theme of idealised love to Avignon, where he first set enchanted eyes on Laure, in 1327. This earthly incarnation of perfection inspired the Canzoniere - over 300 poems, mainly sonnets, on the subject of platonic love. Not withstanding the fated meeting, Petrarch detested Avignon, which he famously described as ‘a sewer where all the filth of the universe has gathered.’

Frederic Mistral (born in 1830, between Arles and Avignon) drew on the troubadour tradition with his love poetry, Mireille (1859), about star-crossed lovers. Written in both Provençal and French, the tragic tale won Mistral a Nobel Prize and revived the dying Provençal language. Together with Avignon-born Theodore Aubanel, he founded the Felibrige movement and helped revive Provençal tradition. Avignon-born writer Pierre Boulle (1912-1994) won international renown with Planet of the Apes (1963) and Bridge Across the River Kwai (1952), both later made into films. English-language writers have painted a mythical picture of Provence as a sun-drenched idyll - most famously in Peter Mayle’s bestselling A Year in Provence (1989).

Sport of Avignon

For football fans, Avignon’s glory days are gone. Twenty years ago, Olympique Avignonnais used to hit first and second league status but no longer. However, this does not stop enthusiastic fans attending local matches at the city’s largest stadium, Le Parc des Sports, avenue Pierre de Courbertin . Rugby is also popular and is played at the Baizet Stadium, route de Tarascon. Tickets are available for purchase at the grounds.

One of the most popular sporting activities in Avignon is roller skating, with skating within the city ramparts taking place every last Friday of the month -departing 0830 from the main post office, cours Kennedy. Participation is free and the skate lasts around two hours. Key sporting events include the Avignon Roll’air roller skating festival in May/June and theTriathlon in June.

The Service des Sports, 74 boulevard Jules Ferry can provide information on swimming pools and sports facilties in the city.

Fitness Centres: Saint Didier Fitness Club, place Saint Didier , is located in the heart of Avignon.

Golf: Membership is not required at Pradier Golf Grand Avignon, Les Chenes Verts, Vedene . Daily green fees are charged at €38 weekdays and €46 weekends. Visiting golfers can also play at Golf de Chateaublanc, rue de Chateaublanc, Morieres , at similar rates.

Squash: Avignon Squash Racket, 32 boulevard Limbert, charges €6.50 for 40 minutes of play or €54 for 11 40-minute games. Racket and ball hire costs €2.50.

Swimming: The municipal pool is situated on route de Marseille and is open during the summer only. There is also an Olympic pool at Iles de la Barthelasse . The tourist office provides a complete list of the city’s swimming pools.

Tennis: Tennis Club d’Avignon, chemin des Freres Reboul, Villeneuve-les-Avignon , hires out its six outdoor and three indoor courts to non-members, for €8 per person per hour.

Food and Dining in Avignon

Nightlife

The lively nightspots are situated around place de l’Horloge, place du Palais, trendy rue Carnot and place des Corps-Saints and all become frenetic during the Avignon Festival. Licensing hours are not strict in France and bars stay open quite late, some past midnight, while some clubs are open well into the small hours. The legal drinking age in France is 16 years and the average price of drink while out and about in Avignon is €4. Dress codes and admission requirements to clubs are not an issue in Avignon, where smart-casual rules the day.

The Avignon Tourist Office distributes the free monthly arts, events and music listings magazine, Rendez-Vous d’Avignon (also available in arts centers). This is well worth getting, as it provides up-to-the-minute information about what is on in Avignon.

Bars: Bars with a buzz include Pub Z, 58 rue de la Bonneterie. Open until 0130, the bar is owned by a rocker, enamoured of zebras, which dominate the decor. A medley of arty types hang out amid the mirror-lined walls and modern sculptures of Le Grand Cafe, located at cultural hub La Manutention, 4 rue escalier Ste Anne, where decent food is served. Esclave Bar, 12 rue du Limas, is a popular gay bar and disco.

Casinos: There are no casinos in Avignon.

Clubs: Avignon is not a clubbing center, although there are some small venues, such as the eclectic Red Zone, 25 rue Carnot, which plays anything from salsa to house and is open 1900-0300. Bokao’s, 9 bis, boulevard Quai Saint Lazare, has a chill-out cafe as well as dancefloor and VIP area. The biggest clubs are located approximately a 10-minute drive from Avignon and include Le Prive Club, route de Tavel in Les Angles, a techno and house venue in an old quarry.

Live Music: AJMI Jazz Club at La Manutention, 4 rue escalier Ste Anne, is a popular jazz venue on Thursday night. Rock is played at Le Bistroquet bar, Quartier du Mouton, on Ile de la Barthelasse, while regular concerts are held at Les Passagers du Zinc, 23 route de Montfavet.

Activities in Avignon

Avignon’s cultural scene hits the headlines each July, with the Avignon Festival, created by Jean Vilar in 1947. It is the oldest and most famous of the festivals in France. Originally pure theater, the event now includes contemporary and religious music, dance, poetry, circus, films, exhibitions and debates involving up to 600 separate organizations.

The most prestigious productions are performed in the vast Palais des Papes courtyard, others within theaters, churches and sports halls. The Chartreuse, at Villeneuve-les-Avignon, showcases the contemporary theater of the Avignon Festival, as well as a separate musical theater festival, Villeneuve en Scene. The program for 2003 included a performance of Romeo and Juliet in the cour du lycee Saint-Joseph, ‘equestrian theater’ in the parc des Expositions-Chateaublanc, as well as author readings in the cours du Musee Calvet.

The Bureau du Festival d’Avignon (and box office) is located at the Espace Saint-Louis, 20 rue du Portail Boquier . Alongside the official festival (locally known as the ‘In’), the ‘Off’ fringe festival enlivens city streets and courtyards with a carnival atmosphere. The ‘In’ program is available on the website from March, or from the Bureau du Festival d’Avignon or the Avignon Tourist Office (see Sightseeing) as of the second week in May. Tickets (priced at €10-40) are available by telephone or on the website, from June onwards. The ‘Off’ program is published in mid-June (when booking commences) by Paris-based Avignon Public Off . During the festival, the headquarters are within the Conservatoire de Musique, 9 Place du Palais des Papes .

Tickets to all other performances and cultural events in the city are available for purchase from the individual venue box offices, in advance or on the day. The tourist office publishes a monthly calendar of events (French only) in Rendez-Vouz.

Music: The gracious Opera d’Avignon , built in 1847, overlooks place de l’Horloge. The season runs from October to June and includes operas, operettas and symphonic and chamber music concerts, as well as theater and ballet. The Musique Sacree en Avignon, 49 rue Portail Magnanen, organizes free concerts in churches (October to May).

Theater: Avignon has about 10 permanent theaters, as well as the opera house (see above). The Theatre du Chene Noir, 8 rue Ste-Catherine ), draws well-known actors and directors, while the Theatre du Chien qui Fume, 75 rue des Teinturiers , puts on a varied program of theater, music and improvization evenings. The Theatre des Halles, 4 rue Noël Biret, excels in contemporary theater, while cutting-edge Theatre des Carmes, 6 place des Carmes , is run by the Andre Benedetto company - one of the founders of the Festival ‘Off’. Theater tickets tend to be cheaper than the Festival ‘On’ and the season runs from October to May.

Dance: Dance has its own moment of glory in February, when Les Hivernales contemporary dance festival takes place at La Manutention, 4 rue escalier Ste Anne . The Theatre de la Danse, 1 rue Ste Catherine offers courses and performances year round.
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