Food and Dining in France

With the exception of China, France has a more varied and developed cuisine than any other country. The simple, delicious cooking for which France is famous is found in the old-fashioned bistro and restaurant. There are two distinct styles of eating in France. One is, of course, ‘gastronomy’ (haute cuisine), widely known and honored as a cult with rituals, rules and taboos. It is rarely practiced in daily life, partly because of the cost and the time which must be devoted to it. The other is family-style cooking, often just as delicious as its celebrated counterpart. Almost all
restaurants offer two types of meal: a la carte (extensive choice for each course and more expensive) and le menu (a set meal at a fixed price with dishes selected from the full a la carte menu). At simple restaurants, the same cutlery will be used for all courses. The bill (l’addition) will not be presented until it is asked for, even if clients sit and talk for half an hour after they have finished eating. Many restaurants close for a month during the summer, and one day a week. It is always wise to check that a restaurant is open, particularly on Sunday. Generally speaking, mealtimes in France are strictly observed. Lunch is, as a rule, served from 1200 to 1330, dinner usually from 2000-2130, but the larger the city, the later the dining hour. Dishes include: tournedos (small steaks ringed with bacon); chateaubriand; entrecote (rib steak) served with bearnaise (tarragon-flavored sauce with egg base); and gigot de presale (leg of lamb roasted or broiled) served with flageolets (light green beans) or pommes dauphines (deep-fried mashed potato puffs). Other dishes include: brochettes (combinations of cubed meat or seafood on skewers, alternating with mushrooms, onions or tomatoes); ratatouille niçoise (stew of courgettes, tomatoes and aubergines, braised with garlic in olive oil); pot-au-feu (beef boiled with vegetables and served with coarse salt); and blanquette de veau (veal stew with mushrooms in a white wine/cream sauce).

In the north of France (Nord/Pas de Calais and Picardy), fish and shellfish are the star features in menus - oysters, moules (mussels), coques (cockles) and crevettes (shrimps) are extremely popular. In Picardy, duck pates and ficelle picarde (ham and mushroom pancake) are popular. In the Champagne-Ardenne region, there are the hams of Rheims and sanglier (wild boar). Among the fish specialties in this area are ecrevisses (crayfish) and brochets (pike). Alsace and Lorraine are the lands of choucroute (sauerkraut) and kugelhof (a special cake), quiche lorraine and tarte flambee (onion tart). Spicy and distinctive sauces are the hallmark of Breton food, and shellfish is a specialty of the region, particularly homard a l’armoricaine (lobster with cream sauce). Lyon, the main city of the Rhone Valley, is the heartland of French cuisine, though the food is often more rich than elaborate. A specialty of this area is quenelles de brochet (pounded pike formed into sausage shapes and usually served with a rich crayfish sauce). Bordeaux rivals Lyon as gastronomic capital of France.

Aquitaine cuisine (in the south-west of France) is based on goosefat. A reference to ‘Perigord’ will indicate a dish containing truffles. Basque chickens are specially reared. In the Pyrenees, especially around Toulouse, visitors will find salmon and cassoulet, a hearty dish with beans and preserved meat. General de Gaulle once asked, with a certain amount of pride, how it was possible to rule a country which produced 365 different kinds of cheese; some of the better known are Camembert, Brie, Roquefort, Reblochon and blue cheeses from Auvergne and Bresse. Desserts include: souffle grand-marnier; oeufs a la neige (meringues floating on custard); mille feuilles (layers of flaky pastry and custard cream); Paris-Brest (a large puff-pastry with hazelnut cream); ganache (chocolate cream biscuit); and fruit tarts and flans.

For more information on the specialties from the various regions of France, consult the regional entries in the Where to Go section. The tourist office publishes a guide to restaurants in Paris and the Ile-de-France.

Wine is by far the most popular alcoholic drink in France, and the choice will vary according to region. Cheap wine (vin ordinaire) can either be very palatable or undrinkable, but there is no certain way of establishing which this is likely to be before drinking. Wines are classified into AC (Appellation Controlee), VDQS (Vin delimite de qualite superieure), Vin de Pays and Vin de Table. There are several wine-producing regions in the country; some of the more notable are Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire, Rhone and Champagne. In elegant restaurants, the wine list will be separate from the main menu but, in less opulent establishments, will be printed on the back or along the side of the carte. The waiter will usually be glad to advise an appropriate choice.

In expensive restaurants, this will be handled by a sommelier or wine steward. If in doubt, try the house wine; this will usually be less expensive and will always be the owner’s pride. Coffee is always served after the meal, and will always be black, in small cups, unless a cafe au lait (or creme) is requested. Liqueurs such as Chartreuse, Framboise and Genepi (an unusual liqueur made from an aromatic plant) are available. Many of these liqueurs, such as eau de vie and calvados (apple brandy) are very strong and should be treated with respect, particularly after a few glasses of wine. A good rule of thumb is to look around and see what the locals are drinking. Spirit measures are usually doubles unless a baby is specifically asked for.

There is also a huge variety of aperitifs available. A typically French drink is pastis, such as Ricard or Pernod. The region of Nord/Pas de Calais and Picardy does not produce wine, but brews beer and cider. Alsace is said to brew the best beer in France but fruity white wines, such as Riesling, Traminer and Sylvaner, and fine fruit liqueurs, such as Kirsch and Framboise, are also produced in this area. The wines from the Champagne region of the Montagne de Rheims district are firm and delicate (Vevenay Verzy), or full-bodied and ful-flavored (Bouzy and Ambonnay).

The legal age for drinking alcohol in a bar/cafe is 18. Minors are allowed to go into bars if accompanied by an adult but they will not be served alcohol. Hours of opening depend on the proprietor but, generally, bars in major towns and resorts are open throughout the day; some may still be open at 0200. Smaller towns tend to shut earlier. There are also all-night bars and cafes.