Food and Dining in Marseille
Food and Dining in Marseille
There is no shortage of good restaurants in Marseille. From traditional Provencal to more exotic cuisine, everyone will find something to their liking in the Phocean city. Local specialties include the world famous bouillabaisse (fish stew) of course, but also pied et paquets, ratatouille, soupe au pistou, aioli and so on. it is worth noting that many restaurants are closed on Sundays, and sometimes in August too. Call beforehand to avoid disappointment.
The restaurants below have been divided into five different categories
(Gourmet, Business, Trendy, Moderate and Personal Recommendations) and four pricing categories:
$$$$ (over Pound Sterling 50)
$$$ (Pound Sterling 25 to Pound Sterling 50)
$$ (Pound Sterling 10 to Pound Sterling 25)
$ (under Pound Sterling 10)
The prices above are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they do not include VAT or service charge, unless stated otherwise.
Gourmet
L’Epuisette
An idyllic setting at the entrance to the Vallon des Auffes, affording fantastic views of the Big Blue and the islands (especially beautiful at sunset), is only one of the draws at this upmarket restaurant. First and foremost, L’Epuisette, with chef Guillaume Sourrieu at the helm, has established a reputation for excellence in the kitchen, and the seafood and fish dishes here are some of the best in the city. Add to this impeccable service, and you most definitely are onto a winner.
Vallon des Auffes, 7e
Tel: (04) 91 52 17 82.
Website: www.l-epuisette.com
Price: $$$$
La Ferme
La Ferme (The Farm) is one of the best restaurants in Marseille. Chef Raymond Borso combines uncommon flavors to create some unique, sometimes intriguing, but always delicious dishes with a strong Provencal accent. His boldness is rewarded by the loyalty diners show by returning again and again. The cosy setting is perfect for a romantic evening. Reservations recommended.
Le Miramar
This is simply one of the best culinary experiences to have in Marseille. Since the mid-1960s, aficionados of bouillabaisse have been flocking to Le Miramar for a taste of the flavorful fish soup, Marseille’s world famous culinary specialty. Believe it or not, bouillabaisse (a good one never comes cheap, because of the sheer number of fish needed to make it) was once a rough-and-tumble recipe devised by fishermen as a way of using the least desirable portion of their catch. This is the place to try it. You won’t regret it.
Le Petit Nice
The restaurant in the hotel of the same name on the Corniche was established in 1917. Since then, three generations of chefs have ensured its well deserved reputation as one of the city’s best tables. Le Petit Nice boasts two Michelin-stars, and this is reflected in the prices. However, a beautiful location with breathtaking views over the bay, professional service and delicious, sophisticated local cuisine combine to make this venue perfect for a special occasion.
Business
Chez Fonfon
Nestled in the Vallon des Auffes, a picturesque small calanque (creek) tucked away underneath the Corniche, is one of the legendary restaurants of Marseille. The area is still home to fishermen and their families, so of course the focus of Chez Fonfon is very much on seafood dishes. One of the best places in town to try the famous Bouillabaisse.
Les Arcenaulx
Located in grand surroundings in Louis XiV’s arsenal, this restaurant (part of a complex that also houses two bookstores and a shop) specializes in traditional local dishes such as pieds et paquets and daube. Several reception rooms are also available. Closed on Sunday.
Restaurant La Mer
ideal for a business meal, with great views of the sea right outside the restaurant, La Mer serves typical Provençal cuisine, with special emphasis on fish and seafood, in modern surroundings.
Trendy
L’indigo Cafe
Right by the sea at the very ‘happening’ Escale Borely, this trendy restaurant (one can sit outside in summer) offers Tex Mex fare in authentic looking surroundings. Choose between fajitas, tacos, chili con carne, quesadillas, and even a Mexican pizza, and wash the lot down with a good selection of Mexican beers (of course) and wines from Latin America.
Spotless tiny Japanese restaurant nestled behind the Palais Longchamp. Friendly service, as-fesh-as-it-gets food and intimate atmosphere. The sushi, sashimis and other offerings from the Land of the Rising Sun are all excellent, and as there is an open plan kitchen, so you can watch the guy rolling your sushi before eating them (the restaurant is owned by a friendly young couple). The small size and big popularity of this restaurant mean that bookings are essential.
Le Shambhala
For something different and more peaceful, try Le Shambala, a very zen (and truly unique) retreat just round the corner from the Cours Julien, in the lively La Plaine district. Here one can choose from hundreds of teas from around the world in a ‘Moroccan themed’ room (rugs, bean bags, low coffee tables, and no shoes!… you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve just stepped in Ali Baba’s cavern). The home made pastries are delicious, and there are even board games for the restless. No smoking throughout.
Le Shambhala recently came under new management and there is now also a proper restaurant (untried).
Budget
La Kahena
A well established Tunisian restaurant near the Vieux Port, La Kahena packs the punters in every night, despite severe local competition. The restaurant specializes in couscous, of which it offers 10 different varieties, including merguez, fish, lamb, chicken and ‘royal’, with a bit of everything in it. Other dishes include tajines, mechoui, and all sorts of grilled veggies. Wash the lot down with a mint tea.
Tarte Julie
An ideal pit stop for stocking up on pies, cakes and other pastries, which one can eat at a table at the back or take away. Good grub at reasonable prices for lunch on a budget.
Table Ronde - La Taverne Bretonne
This creperie is owned and managed by a guy from Brittany, and needless to say they know their stuff there. Try some delicious pancakes and galettes (traditional or more modern options, the choice is vast) washed down with some excellent cider. The decor will transport you to another part of France (the owners brought some Breton furniture and table linen with them to give the restaurant that authentic feel). Near the Prefecture. Take away also available.
Personal Recommendations
Al Dente
Just round the corner from the prefecture, this restaurant has been churning out excellent pasta dishes (all home made on the premises in the morning) since 1984, and there is no sign of their popularity waning. Where else are you going to try tagliatelle with foie gras and girolles, rigatoni with melted goat cheese, black tagliatelle with scallops or basilica and rabbit ravioli? Booking essential.
La Cloche a Fromage
La Cloche a Fromage is a well established restaurant on the place Thiars where all the dishes on the menu feature cheese, be it in salad, in sauces or even in desserts. Check out the enormous cheese bell (cloche) after which the restaurant is named, where dozens of cheeses welcome diners with an unmistakable whiff!
La Cote de Boeuf
A restaurant with a well established reputation for the quality of its meat (cooked either on the grill or in a woodfire oven) and the great selection of its wine list. Lots of wood, stone walls and a fireplace make for a cosy atmosphere. More expensive, but more upmarket, than L’Entrecote du Port (which is good too) just around the corner. Closed Sunday.
La Taverne de Maitre Kanter
Traditional northern French cuisine, including choucroute and moules frites, served in a relaxed atmosphere. The service is friendly and the portions generous. And there is a good selection of beers to wash the lot down.
Le Tire-Bouchon
Specialties from Lyons with a touch of the exotic are the signature dishes of this restaurant in the bohemian Cours Julien. Oysters au gratin, foie gras, lobster, duck and game all feature on the menu. A solid wine list complements any dining choice. And there is a terrace under welcome trees to get some respite from the hot summer nights. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Nightlife:
Marseille has a dynamic live music and club scene. Check out Sortir, every Wednesday in La Provence (website: www.laprovence-presse.fr), the local daily paper, for listings.
Also worth buying is l’Officiel des Loisirs, out every Wednesday too. Otherwise Vox Mag is a free fortnightly publication with listings, available from La Fnac, Virgin and many venues.
The best areas for nightlife in Marseille are the Vieux Port and Place Thiars, and the Escale Borely, a relatively new waterfront development south of the town center (a 20 minute ride on the bus no 83), right by the sea. Also worth checking out is Le Cours Julien, a square lined with cafes and restaurants in the La Plaine area.
Bars: Many bars in Marseille are also ‘glaciers’ (ice cream parlours). in fact, going out for an ice-cream is almost as popular as going out for a drink, at least in the hot summer months. For an aperitif head for the Bar de la Marine, 15 quai de Rive Neuve, 7e, made famous by local author Marcel Pagnol. Le Suffren, quai des Belges, 6e, is one of the many other bars overlooking the Vieux Port, perfect for people watching and especially pleasant at sunset.
Le Cafe de la Plage, Escale Borely, avenue Pierre Mendes, 8e, is a swanky cocktail bar facing the sea near the Prado beaches, popular with a hip young surfer crowd. Le Manureva, 1 avenue de la Pointe-Rouge, 8e, is an ultra trendy bar in the chic part of town (it’s decorated like a luxury yacht inside), ideal for a pre-club drink or two. Homesick visitors can try the Red Lion, 231 avenue Pierre de Mendes France, 8e for some draught beer, English speaking staff and some fish and chips. MP Bar, 10 rue Beauveau, 1e is the most popular of Marseille’s gay bars, open from early evening until sunrise. Bars a vin (wine bars) are popular at the moment. Try Le Bistrot a Vin, 17 rue Sainte, 1e.
Casino: There are no casinos in Marseille.
Clubs: Le Trolleybus, 22-24, quai de Rive Neuve, 7e has been going strong for years and is still one of the most popular clubs in Marseille, with techno, house, hip-hop, jazz, and salsa, depending on the day of the week. The Cafe de la Plage, Escale Borely, avenue Mendès-France, 8e, is where all the trendy young things strut their stuff… it offers dancing and karaoke with popular music selections.
The New Cancan (3 rue Senac, 1e) is the city’s largest gay-friendly club, while Le Millenium, route de Cassis, 9e, is one of the biggest clubs in town, and plays mainly house music. La Maronaise, Anse Croisettes, Les Goudes, 8e, is frequented by some of Marseille’s beau monde (including well-known soccer players and television personalities) who come here to enjoy the amazing view and the impressive seawater pool (open Apr-Oct only). Entry to some nightclubs very much depends on the whim of the bouncers on the day, but dressing the part helps, so make an effort.
Live Music: check out Espace Julien, 39 cours Julien, 6e , for everything from French music to jazz to hip hop and local talent; Dock des Suds, 12, rue Urbain V, 2e (website: www.dock-des-suds.org) for world music, and Friche Belle de Mai, 23 rue Guibal, 3e . Pele-Mele, 8 place aux Huiles 1e, is a many-faceted bar/disco/cafe that occasionally hosts live music. The Cite de la Musique (Auditorium), 4 rue Bernard du Bois, 1e is the home of several local music associations and features concerts of all kinds, from jazz to baroque music. La Cave a Jazz, rue Bernard-du-Bois, 1e, is, as its name indicates, the place to go for jazz music.